Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.